A relocated Philadelphian attempts to find her new local for burgers and beer somewhere on the Eastern Shore
Story and Photography by Meredith Lindemon
It was strange to watch my way of life be dismantled by a force beyond my control. I spent my real life, living and working, in Center City, Philadelphia. In one day last March, that life was pretty much over. I toughed it out, locked in my apartment for months, and watched houses go on the market for less and less. I said goodbye to friends who were my family, and they were replaced by unknown strangers who could suddenly afford to live in the city as the cost of rent dropped.
Like many people who lived and worked in big cities prior to the pandemic, I eventually went somewhere else, where life seemed like it might be more manageable. I came to the Bay side of Maryland’s Eastern Shore last November, where I could walk out the door without having to make a strategic plan first. The fact that I could go to a restaurant, and actually sit somewhere, seemed like an all but forgotten fantasy. It was sleeting and I was dying for a cheeseburger and a pint of beer.
Being a regular anywhere in Philly is based on unwritten rules, customs and manners. Basically, keep your mouth shut, respond when spoken to, tip well and then go home—and this is hard for a lot of people for whatever reason. While I definitely didn’t plan on being a “regular” anywhere here, I thought adhering to the same standard of behavior would ensure I didn’t end up getting kicked, punched, dragged out the door and dropped into a dumpster like a tourist back home.
As I began my research, I noticed a pattern: I would get bombed by the same sequence of personal questions every time I entered specific places, by the same people, for nine months now and counting. What’s your name? What’s your last name? Where do you live? Why are you here? Where are you from? What do you do?
When I arrived at the word, Philadelphia, followed by the word journalist, I was immediately cursed off in one case; directed to some electrical plant and told I was going to be trafficked in another; and, in a third, I was told to take an “off-the-books” “waitressing job” I didn’t request—and wasn’t convinced was legal—by someone who claimed to be involved in racketeering.
Nevertheless, I persevered in my quest to find a burger—and the answer to why it seemed like I wasn’t supposed to be a journalist as long as I lived here.
I started in Talbot County, drove into Dorchester, and then to Kent and Sussex Counties. Then back to Worcester County, down to Accomack County, and ended in Northampton. By no means a comprehensive list, these are the noteworthy places I found myself in as I drove all around the Eastern Shore.
Talbot County
Restaurant: Robert Morris Inn
Location: Oxford
Vibe: Like my grandmother’s house, if it were a tavern staffed by 16-year-olds; comfortable enough to strike up a conversation with staff without it turning weird.
Order: Premium Beef Burger
Price: $20
Toppings: Aged cheddar cheese, smoked bacon and jalapeño aioli, lettuce, tomato
Sides: Bleu cheese apple coleslaw, Old Bay potato chips or shoestring fries
Burger notes: The beef was charred and slightly crispy, and I could kind of taste charcoal or understand the idea of it; the aioli captured the essence of bacon and the pepper without tasting like its own separate entity. This is the second-best burger I’ve eaten on the Eastern Shore, right behind Bill’s Prime.
Beer: I had a mimosa.
While I was there: I arrived on an off-season Sunday, at the tail end of brunch, which was an annoying thing for me to do, so I expected a bit of frostiness from the staff. I did not get it though. Mike, the bartender that day, genuinely seemed not to mind that I was having brunch at 2:30 p.m. (incidentally, he’s from Philly, a veteran of Starr Restaurants). On a return visit, I met owners Ian Flemming and Mark Salter, who were as welcoming as the rest of their staff.
Restaurant: The Galley, St. Michaels
Location: St. Michaels
Vibe: Casual American with light wood and sunshine; relaxed but please eat and GTFO.
Order: Galley Burger
Price: $19
Toppings: American sharp cheese, grilled onions, tomato, applewood-smoked bacon, avocado, house secret sauce
Sides: Chips or salad
Burger notes: Somehow, the burger is a schematic of Galley’s interior decor. The beef was fresh — and I don’t know if it’s possible for something to taste healthy, but this tasted like health. I asked to hold the bacon, so maybe that’s the reason.
Beer: I had a really elaborate Bloody Mary with a ton of garnish.
While I was there: The bartender, Stacy, is something of an iron fist in a velvet glove. I was there for a weekend brunch right at the end of off-season, and the outdoor seating area was packed with visitors ordering bottles of wine. Stacy was the glue here.
Photo courtesy The Galley
Restaurant: St. Michaels Crab & Steakhouse
Location: St. Michaels
Vibe: Nautical meets brick, low ceilings and shipping barrels, where locals hang at the inside bar.
Order: The Larry
Price: $17
Toppings: Provolone, sautéed mushrooms and onions
Sides: Fries
Burger notes: The Larry is named after a regular, who liked his burger with these toppings, cooked to a medium-rare. Incidentally, this is my favorite preparation for a cheesesteak.
Beer: Try Saint Michaels Ale.
While I was there: I went on a peak-season Friday at dinnertime, and the outdoor bar and tables both were pretty open, which I thought was surprising for St. Michaels’ busy time of year. The owner, Eric Rosen, asked me a lot of questions and requested that I shoot a miniature of flavored vodka, which he said is his thing.
Restaurant: Awful Arthur’s
Location: St. Michaels
Vibe: Covered- and open-patio outdoor seating set back from Talbot Street in a garden-style arrangement where I don’t feel hurried or in the way.
Order: Angus Burger
Price: $12
Toppings: Cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion
Sides: Fries
Burger notes: Something about Awful Arthur’s makes me happy to eat their food. Their burger is charred and cooked to the preferred temperature and tastes fresh. I like the minimal fuss on top.
Beer: Try a Kill Devil Cocktail: a draft beer with an oyster and a teaspoon of cocktail sauce.
While I was there: Owner Arthur Webb is hospitable and welcoming, and his staff seem to share the same attitude.
Restaurant: Suicide Bridge Restaurant
Location: Hurlock
Vibe: Busy, large, family-friendly, dockside dining establishment and event space with riverboat cruises and a smaller, wood-paneled bar off to the right of the main entryway.
Order: Surf & Turf Burger
Price: $20
Toppings: Suicide’s crab dip, jumbo lump crabmeat, cheddar cheese
Sides: Fries, chips or coleslaw
Burger notes: Swallowing my dislike of the crab, I swallowed part of this burger. The beef tasted fresh and was cooked to a medium-rare temperature, the combination of cheese and crab and the creaminess of the dip did not turn out to be too much happening at once.
Beer: Try Suicide Ale by Suicide Bridge, an American Amber Ale.
While I was there: Not a ton of staff attention, which is understandable because the place is huge and super busy. On an early-peak-season weekday at noon, the parking lot is full.
Restaurant: Foxy’s Harbor Grill
Location: St. Michaels
Vibe: Plastic tables on a cement patio by the water, with live music and beers in cans. Feels like Wildwood, N.J. — but that’s a good thing.
Order: Angus Burger
Price: $10.50
Toppings: Customizable; mine came with cheddar, bacon and avocado
Sides: Kettle chips, black-bean salad, coleslaw
Burger notes: The burger here is as good as Galley St. Michaels, minus the taste of health.
Beer: Eastern Shore Brewing’s Summer Crush Orange, a fruited NEDIPA with a 10.7% ABV, goes from sweet to rank real quick. Try Flying Dog’s Raging Bitch IPA instead.
While I was there: I think someone I was talking to scoffed at this place. I really like it. The management is really friendly and professional, and it’s a fun time for people maybe five or 10 years younger than me who want to have fun while they’re here before they head back to wherever they live full-time.
Restaurant: Hammy’s Hideout
Location: St. Michaels
Vibe: Basic bar/restaurant with a beagle theme and bartenders who are friendlier than elsewhere in St. Michaels.
Order: The Big Mark
Price: $14
Toppings: Cheese, special sauce, onions, pickles, lettuce
Sides: Seasoned fries
Burger notes: Surprisingly, it did taste like a Big Mac.
Beer: Eastern Shore Brewing’s Bones Pale Ale is exclusive to Hammy’s. It’s watery, and I recommend the Mudslide milkshake, which tastes exactly like it sounds.
While I was there: This is a great place to go if you want to be left alone in St. Michaels.
Restaurant: Rude Burger
Location: Easton
Vibe: A bit like Shake Shack
Order: Rude Burger
Price: $13
Toppings: Customizable, with choice of cheese and choice of side for an upcharge
Sides: Rude fries
Burger notes: Smash style done a bit on the medium side of well, greasy in a greasy way.
Beer: If you want to get whacked, try a bourbon slushie.
While I was there: Walked up to the register, ordered my burger, then reported to a picnic table in a plastic-enclosed area and ate half my burger before getting up to leave. I think it was around 3 p.m. on a weekday.
Dorchester County
Restaurant: RAR Brewing
Location: Cambridge
Vibe: Skateboard/street-art-inspired brewpub with cartoony large-scale wall art, trying not to take itself seriously while making a conscious effort to be the only place around here that looks like this.
Order: Chessie Deluxe
Price: $8
Toppings: American cheese, pickles, lettuce, onions, RAR sauce
Sides: Kettle chips
Burger notes: The two smash-style patties are the good kind of greasy, which doesn’t turn the bun into a wad of sticky mush; the RAR sauce (horseradish, catsup, mustard and mayo) makes this the best smash burger I’ve eaten on the Eastern Shore.
Beer: RAR Brewing’s Quartz Banger Imperial IPA is pretty drinkable considering its
8.4% ABV.
While I was there: I went on a weekday towards the end of afternoon, the bar had a reasonable amount of activity and I was left totally alone to eat, drink my beer and not be hassled. The bartenders are super chilled out and the whole vibe of the place reminded me of Philly about 10 years ago, which is to say that it was a nostalgic afternoon that I enjoyed.
Restaurant: Johnny’s Tavern
Location: East New Market
Vibe: Super-chilled-out local tavern where people are friendly and concealed carry is permitted
Order: The Works Burger
Price: $13
Toppings: Provolone, bacon, mushrooms, lettuce, tomato, mayo
Sides: Fries
Burger notes: This burger is enormous. Cooked more on the well side of medium, the mushrooms make it: They aren’t slimy and shriveled from being over-sauteed. Also, I took this burger home with me, and it was as good the second day as it was the first. Johnny’s Tavern has achieved the impossible. Well done!
Beer: RAR Brewing’s Country Ride Pale Ale has a 5.8% ABV.
While I was there: Two American flags with a flatscreen playing Divorce Court in between, and plenty of pool tables. There’s bar seating, with high-tops and booths in the back. Bartender Brian is courteous and professional, and bar patrons are quiet, friendly and relaxed. Of all the bars I’ve visited on the Eastern Shore, this is my favorite.
Restaurant: Suicide Bridge Restaurant
Location: Hurlock
Vibe: Busy, large family-friendly, dock-side dining establishment and event space with riverboat cruises and a smaller, wood paneled bar off to the right of the main entryway.
Order: Surf & Turf Burger
Price: $20
Toppings: Suicide’s crab dip, jumbo lump crab meat, cheddar cheese.
Sides: Fries, chips or cole slaw.
Burger notes: Swallowing my dislike of the crab, I swallowed part of this burger. The beef tasted fresh and was cooked to a medium-rare temperature, the combination of cheese and crab, and the creaminess of the dip did not turn out to be too much happening at once.
Beer: Try Suicide Ale by Suicide Bridge, an American Amber Ale.
While I was there: Not a ton of staff attention, which is understandable because the place is huge and super busy. On an early peak season weekday at noon, the parking lot is full.
Sussex County
In Bridgeville, I met George Jefferson, owner of Jeff’s Taproom and Grille. His establishment, which he owns and operates with his wife, was opened by his parents and has been in existence for 52 years. Following the passing of his mother and then his father, he worked to continue his parents’ business—and the restaurant that’s now his and his wife’s has had three expansions.
Jefferson told me how the pandemic—and related events—had impacted his restaurant’s operations, had brought about a reduction in staff and had caused different supply chain issues that resulted in ongoing fluctuations of the cost of goods. Those variables, combined with the increase in the overall population that moved to the area, and the subsequent increase in traffic to his establishment, has created a certain kind of friction that seemed related to those unwritten rules, customs and manners of a given time and place mentioned earlier in this story.
I asked him what he’d tell someone like me, who wanted to find a local place after being relocated from a big city. He said, “We welcome anyone here. We’re family-friendly and we want people to know that.” He directed my attention to a sign on the wall that read, Trouble will not be tolerated. We will call the Bridgeville Police.
What I think I have learned about people throughout my career, is that everyone shares a certain pride of place, and a definite protectiveness over their way of life. But when that person is taken out of that place and dropped into a new one, there is a struggle to read those unwritten rules. No one can exist in a permanent state of vacation, not the newcomer and not Jeff’s Taproom and Grille.
Restaurant: Pig & Publican
Location: Lewes
Vibe: Breezy and relaxed, with good natural light and outdoor seating.
Order: Publican Burger
Price: $15
Toppings: Cheddar, bacon, spinach, caramelized onions, horseradish aioli.
Sides: Chips.
Burger notes: The salt on the toasted pretzel bun was noticeable, then vanished nicely. The horseradish aioli added to the cheeseburger kind of gave it a roast beef sandwich flavor.
Beer: I tried Burley Oak Brewing’s Coffee N Cream.
While I was there: I talked to the bartender and another staff-member about local breweries. This place has a rotating beer list filled with things I’m looking forward to trying.
Restaurant: Rehoboth Ale House
Location: Rehoboth Beach
Vibe: Right off the beach, made me feel like I was in Stone Harbor, N.J., but as an adult, which is to say full of misplaced teenaged angst. This place might be for people who like to power drink and hook up. That’s the vibe I got.
Order: Rehoboth Ale House Burger
Price: $15
Toppings: Cheddar, bacon, caramelized onions, roasted garlic aioli.
Sides: Chip.
Burger notes: The caramelized onions were very there.
Beer: Other Half Brewing District Drip is a trendy-looking beer in cans from D.C.
While I was there: I noticed that there were a few receipts tacked to the bar service access to shame people who had apparently performed a dine-and-ditch.
Restaurant: Cottage Cafe
Location: Bethany Beach
Vibe: Waterfront restaurant and pub with professional staff and management.
Order: “Poffen” Burger (named after the owner, Brent Poffenburger)
Price: $12
Toppings: Cheddar jack, mushrooms and onions, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle.
Sides: Fries.
Burger notes: This is exactly what I’m looking for in a burger: lots of cheese and not-slippery onions, with a good pickle.
Beer: I tried a Cottage Colada, which you can take to go.
While I was there: Jodi, the manager, is perhaps the most pleasant individual I’ve encountered in this quest. Will, the bartender that night, was very fun to talk to—right up until my leg got stuck to the barstool as I was attempting to dismount, causing the stool to tip over and me to yell, Ah! Sh*t!, thinking I was going down. At this point, Will—and the other bar guests—became visibly embarrassed because of my discombobulated display of klutzy-ness. I did not hit the floor (and neither did the chair), thankfully, but this does mark the second time I’ve fallen off a chair during a press-related dinner. Then I hopped in my enormous car and hauled out of the parking lot, going the wrong way out of the entrance to the establishment, forcing someone going the right direction out of my way before I got lost in the parking lot of the adjacent shopping center. Good thing I had that to-go colada thing to drink on my way home.
Worcester County
Restaurant: Liquid Assets
Location: Ocean City
Vibe: Bar/restaurant/bottle shop off Ocean City’s main drag, nice-enough bartenders and patrons who mind their business.
Order: Wagyu Burger
Price: $18
Toppings: Cheddar, pickle relish, beer mustard, chipotle katsup.
Sides: Fries.
Burger notes: This is a solid burger, and the stone ground beer mustard, pickles and chipotle katsup are made in house.
Beer: Try DeweyBeerco’s Secret Machine, a fruited sour brewed in Harbeson, De.
While I was there: I talked to the bartender, who gave me a few recommendations I intend to follow up on, including Twilly Willy’s and Fox’s Pizza.
Restaurant: Longboard Cafe
Location: Ocean City
Vibe: The staff, bartender and bar guests made me love this place. The operations were totally on-point, despite being swamped with guests during dinner rush.
Order: Santa Lucia Burger
Price: $13.50
Toppings: Provolone, roasted tomato, caramelized onions, field greens, sundried tomato aioli.
Sides: Pasta salad.
Burger notes: I intended to order the Longboard Burger, but a lady at the bar sitting to my right recommended that I get the Santa Lucia instead, so I did. While I am not a fan of the sundried tomato as a smearable paste, the combination with the field greens worked for me.
Beer: I drank a Pipeline, a Longboard signature cocktail (mango rum, coconut rum, pineapple, OJ and grenadine).
While I was there: I emailed a Realtor about finding a place in Ocean City. That’s how enjoyable I found this entire experience. Also, the bartender told me that a lady comes by after close to pick up leftover food to feed local cats.
Accomack County
Restaurant: Chatties Lounge
Location: Chincoteague
Vibe: The bar that’s above the seafood restaurant that’s been around for a couple generations.
Order: Cheeseburger
Price: $8.25
Toppings: Cheese, lettuce, tomato.
Sides: Fries.
Burger notes: The burger was untouchably hot, and when I tried to cut it in half, I got the impression that it had just come out of the microwave.
Beer: Tom’s Cove Oyster Stout.
While I was there: I talked to the bartender, Jackson, about how busy things got during the pandemic.
Restaurant: 3Knots Taphouse
Location: Onancock
Vibe: Modern-style taphouse with flatscreens and lots of bar space.
Order: I intended to order whatever burger was on the menu, because I was starving by the time I got there. The owner, T, told me that she’d rather me not because too many people started coming to the restaurant after she had done some local advertising, and told me to get on my way.
Price: N/A
Toppings: N/A
Sides: N/A
Burger notes: As I headed out of Onancock, I spotted a McDonalds and had a No. 7 value meal.
Beer: N/A.
While I was there: I explained to the owner that this was editorial coverage, and that I have nothing to do with the advertising side of things. It was still a no from T. So, I thanked her and headed to McDonalds.
Northampton County
Restaurant: Kelly’s Gingernut Pub
Location: Cape Charles
Vibe: Irish pub in a beautifully converted 1906 bank, with a typically rowdy Irish pub crowd.
Order: Bar-b-que Burger
Price: $16.50.
Toppings: Irish Cheddar, bar-b-que sauce, bacon, onions, pickles.
Sides: Fries.
Burger notes: This is the best-looking burger I’ve ever seen. The cheese was draped masterfully over the rest of everything else. Impressive.
Beer: The Cobb Island IPA by Cape Charles Brewery tastes like weed and I enjoyed it.
While I was there: This was the last burger in my quest. It was objectively one of the best I’ve had as I wrote this article, but I could not eat more than one bite—and I used a fork for some reason. After I was finished, a group of pink-shirts to my left devoured the leftovers off the bar, then hit the road while I was sweating grease.
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